Georgia

Day Four of Georgian Wine Tour – Kakheti Region, Tsinandali Palace and Khareba Winery

(March 2016) I awoke at 6:30am in the large four-poster bed on the top floor of the Hotel Mere castle. A faint light was beckoning beyond the long curtains and I knew dawn was rising over the Caucasus Mountains. Jumping out of bed, I pulled back all of the drapes that covered the floor to ceiling windows, then threw open the doors to step out on the balcony that ran around three sides of my tower room. Then I caught my breath in wonder!  The view of the long range of snow-capped Caucasus Mountains was magnificent, with the rosy fingered [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:09:51-08:00April 21, 2016|

Day Three of Georgian Wine Tour – Kakheti Region, Alverdi Monastery Cellars, Schuchmann Winery and Winiveria

(March 2016) After far too little sleep again, we checked out of our hotel in Tbilisi and boarded two vans to climb over the mountain to the Kakheti Valley – about a two hour drive from Tbilisi. The further we climbed in the mountains, the twistier the road became. Soon snow drifts appeared on the side of the road, and when we reached the top of Gombori Pass, we were surrounded by snow, so we stopped to take some photos and have a snowball fight. Twisting Road Over Gombori Pass in Georgia As we descended towards the Kakheti Valley, where [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:10:13-08:00April 19, 2016|

Day Two of Georgian Wine Tour – Visit the Kartli Region and Chateau Mukhrani

(March 2016) After only about six hours of sleep, it was time to get up, grab some breakfast and jump on the bus to drive about one hour north of Tbilisi to the Kartli wine region. This is one of the oldest wine regions in the country, and is well known for its limestone soils and windy evenings, that promote fresh acids in wine. Hilltop Monestery Taken From Bus Window Guramishvili Historical Wine Cellar The drive was beautiful along a winding river, with views of ancient hilltop monasteries in the distance. Our first stop was Guramishvili Marani with its famous historical [...]

By |2022-12-20T08:32:56-08:00April 18, 2016|

Dinner at Bagrationi Cellars – A Sparkling Wine House

(March 2016) After about a 50 minute drive from the Kartli wine region, we arrived back in Tbilisi to visit the famous Bagrationi Cellars, known for their sparkling wine production. Established in 1882 by Georgian Prince Ivane Bagrationi-Mukhraneli, today they produce around 2 million bottles of sparkling wine made in the traditional method of secondary fermentation in bottle.  In addition, they also produce 1.5 million bottles of Charmant.   Entry Hall at Bagrationi Sparkling Wine Cellars During the Soviet era, the winery was taken over as a Soviet project and produced millions of cases of sparkling. Indeed the winery cellars [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:10:57-08:00April 17, 2016|

How to Make Wine in a Qvevri – Traditional Georgian Winemaking

(March 2016) Before visiting Georgia, I had only heard the word “qvevri,” but had never actually seen one, except in photos.  Though may people mix them up with amphorae, they are different.  A qvevri is used to ferment and age wine, and is buried in the ground.  An amphora is used to transport wine and is not buried in the ground. Qvevri That Have Been Removed from Marani (Cellar Where They are Buried) The other interesting thing about qvevri is they come in many different sizes.  Most hobby winemakers in Georgia (this includes many people who live in the country [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:11:20-08:00April 16, 2016|

Day One of Wine Tour – Tbilisi and the Georgian National Museum

(March 2016) The next morning, I awoke very excited about the first official day of our wine tour organized by the Georgian Wine Association.  The first stop was fittingly the Georgian National Museum where we were welcomed with a short lecture overviewing the wine industry, and then invited to tour the museum in order to see the oldest winemaking equipment and pips in the world. Oldest Qvevri in the World We saw the oldest qvevri, carbon dated at over 8000 years.  It was smaller than I expected, but then it was explained that many people in Georgia make wine in [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:11:44-08:00April 15, 2016|

Key Statistics on the Wine Industry in the Republic of Georgia

(March 2016) During my five day visit to Georgia, we met with many industry experts who provided the following information.  I have also supplemented this with some data from Euromonitor. Geography and Climate of Georgia The geography and climate of Georgia are ideal for growing wine grapes. The Caucasus Mountains, rising over 15,000 feet high (3000 meters) not only divide Georgia from Russia, but protect the valleys from cold and wind, so that the grapevines can flourish. The eastern part of Georgia has a continental climate, with warm summers and cool winters. It is where the majority of vineyards are [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:09-08:00April 14, 2016|

Three Ancient Legends of Georgia, Including the Mystery of the Silver Grapevine Tubes

While visiting the Georgian National Museum, we learned of three ancient legends of Georgia, and the first two are connected to wine. Saint Nino and Her Grapevine Cross Legend says that the apostles Simon and Andrew came to Georgia sometime after the death of Jesus to convert the country to Christianity.  However, they were ignored by the Georgians. It took Saint Nino (a female), who came to Georgia in 337, to convert the King and Queen.  She did this by making a cross of grapevines tied together with her hair.  This linkage to the vine, which was always important to [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:28-08:00April 13, 2016|

Walking to the Major Cultural Sites in Tbilisi, Georgia

(March 2016) After checking into the Mercure at 6am and sleeping for 3 hours, I took a leisurely shower and then opened the curtains to see a splendid fortress on top of a hill just outside my hotel.  Settling down with a cup of coffee, I opened the window to a blue sky day and the sound of sweet bird song.  Small white blossoms were just appearing on the trees, as springtime settled upon Tbilisi. After spending about an hour reading about the cultural sites of the city, I put on my walking shoes and headed out. View of Narikala [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:50-08:00April 12, 2016|

Five Day Wine Tour to Republic of Georgia – Getting to Tbilisi

(March 2016) When I received the email announcement of the IMW wine trip to the Republic of Georgia, I responded immediately but was waitlisted for two months before I received the good news that someone cancelled and I could have one of the 20 spots available. Turkish Airlines, with a direct flight from SFO to Istanbul and then another 2 hours to Tbilisi, had the best price, so I booked a flight and found myself pleasantly delighted with the great service, food, and wine on the plane. Their lounge in Istanbul was also amazing, and even included a golf practice [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:13:22-08:00April 12, 2016|

Master Tasting at Khareba Winery and Opening a Qvevri to Taste the Baby Wine

(March 2016) We were welcomed to Khareba Winery by an amazing site.  A group of polyphonic singers seranaded us, while chefs prepared traditional Georgian food over an open fire (see video here).  We were invited to help cook fresh breads, dumplings filled with herbs and minced lamb, and the amazing "churchkhela," which look like long salamis. In actuality they are walnuts placed on a string and then dipped in a molten pot of hot grape juice. They taste almost like candy. Polyphonic Singers in Black Robes, with cooking pots over fire Churchkhela. Photo by Levan Gokadze Opening the Qvevri and Tasting [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:13:48-08:00April 9, 2016|

Ikalto Academy – The Oldest Winemaking School in the World?

After a stomach churning ride over the Gombori Mountain range between Tbilisi and Telavi, where we stopped along the way to take breathtaking photos of the snowcapped Caucasus mountains in the distance, we arrived at Ikalto Academy. Established in the 6th century, Ikalto Academy is perhaps home to the oldest winemaking school in the world. Some of the members of our group crossing the Gombori Mountains We were greeted by Bishop David who welcomed us in Georgian to the ancient site, while Tina translated. The Bishop explained that the school was founded by Saint Zenon, one of 13 fathers who [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:14:09-08:00April 8, 2016|
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