(October 2016) Reminder
to self: do not visit the Jura wine region on a Saturday at the end of October.
It was Halloween weekend when I decided to visit the Jura wine region, one-hour
drive south of Burgundy. For years I’ve wanted to travel here to taste the
famous “yellow wines” or Vin Jaune of Jura. In addition, I’ve read repeatedly
of the miraculous match of this wine to the Bresse chicken cooked in a cream
and mushroom sauce. Little did I know that the week of All Saints Eve is a time
when many restaurants and domains decide to take a short vacation in the Jura.
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| Jura Wine Ad on Back of Van |
With tantalizing thoughts of a decadent meal of Bresse
chicken and Vin Jaune on my mind, I started one week in advance to attempt to
book reservations at wineries and restaurants. I was successful in booking a
restaurant in Arbois for lunch – I thought – only to have them cancel the
morning I departed. In terms of domains, all were closed with the exception of
the tourist wine shops in Arbois. Thankfully Stephane Tissot invited me to
visit their tasting room, where I had a fabulous experience.
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| Beautiful Vineyards of the Jura |
Starving in Arbois
Departing my gite in Vosne-Romanee around 9:30 that morning
in a hopeful mood that all would work out, I arrived in the small village of
Arbois (the capital of the Jura wine region) just before 11am. My first stop
was the Tourist Office to obtain a map and some recommendations for lunch. They
were very friendly and gave me two suggestions for local restaurants. Therefore,
I happily completed my tasting at Tissot (see below), and then went in search
of the restaurants around noon. Alas
both were closed, and the few that were open in town were completely booked.
“Desole, desole – I’m sorry,” I heard repeatedly, until I
began to hate the phrase. Eventually I
remembered that my friends had suggested I stop at Hirsinger chocolate shop.
So feeling faint from lack of food and hiking what seemed miles around Arbois
in search of an open restaurant, I stumbled into the shop around 1:30 and
ordered a quiche and piece of chocolate for lunch. The dream of chicken with mushrooms and Vin
Jaune is still that – a dream.
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| Hirsinger Chocolate Shop Where I Had Lunch in Arbois |
About the Jura Wine Region and Its Famous “Yellow
Wine”
Nestled in the hills between Burgundy and Switzerland, the
Jura is 80 kilometers in length, with six wine appellations (AOCs). They
specialize in five grape varietals: Savagnin, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Poulsard
and Trousseau – the later three which made a lighter style red wine.
The most famous wine is called Vin Jaune, or “yellow
wine” because of its yellow color due to long aging. This wine must be
made from Savignon grapes – a rather neutral grape with notes of straw and
lemon. After fermentation, it must be aged 6 years and 3 months in oak with no
topping. While in barrel it develops a white mold on top to create a unique,
fresh oxidized wine similar to sherry. It is sold in a shorter squat 62 ml bottle, because 38% of wine disappears in barrel so there is not enough to fill
750 ml bottle – or at least that is what I was told.
Vin Jaune is a unique tasting wine that I really enjoy. It is said to pair best with the local Comte
cheese (hard cheese similar to Swiss, but with a lighter more nutty taste – can
be young or aged). It is also delicious
with nuts, and the famous Bresse chicken with mushrooms and cream sauce (sigh!).
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| Castle with Wine Museum in Arbois |
In addition to still wines, the region also produces
sparkling cremants, Vin Paille - a dessert wine made by drying grapes on straw,
and Marc Vin - grape juice blended with marc.
Most of the producers are very small and it is necessary to
book appointments in advance to visit the domains. However, the main town of
Arbois now has some open tasting rooms for tourists, including the very famous
Stephane Tissot. The other legendary domaine is Macle, located in the village
of Chateau Chalon.
Visiting Stephane Tissot in Arbois
Stephane Tissot is considered to be one of the top
winemakers in the Jura, and was on the list of all three people that I asked
for recommendations on where to visit.
The domain is known for producing very natural wines, using organic
farming practices, and unique winemaking methods such as amphorae. In addition to
their winery outside of town, they have an open tasting room for tourists on
the main street of Arbois, which makes it quite easy to visit them – even on an
off weekend when most wineries are closed.
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| Stephane Tissot Wines in Arbois, Jura |
They were expecting me when I arrived, and I was welcomed
warmly and treated to a tasting of 8 wines. All were extremely well made and
showed distinctive personalities. In general, the reds were quite light, so I
found myself favoring the whites. Top scoring wines for me included:
NV Blanc de Blanc Cremant – 52 months on lees, no dosage.
Biscuity nose, lemon and yeasty brioche on palate. Full, textured, and long.
Delicious. 17 euros.
2015 Chardonnay Patchwork – toasty nose, lemon and tart apple
on palate with a sweet edge. Refreshing with high acid, clean and zesty. Saw
one year in oak. From clay and limestone soil.
After spending 3 months in Burgundy, I thought this wine was very well
made and a great value for only 14 euros.
I immediately bought a bottle.
2015 Trousseau in Amphora – fermented in amphora with skins for
4 months. No filtration or sulfur. Fresh, light bodied red wine with earth and
cranberry notes, grippy tannins.
Fascinating. 27 euros.
2009 Seis Savagnin – named “Seis” for 6 in Spanish, the wine
spent 6 years in oak and is designed to be similar to a Spanish manzanilla –
not a Vin Jaune. Lighter style but
smells like Vin Jaune with apple, mineral, mushroom nose and a slight cheesy
note. A bit of sauerkraut on
finish. Seemed like a cross of an
amontillado and fino.
2009 Chateau Chalon – nutty, cheesy, fresh apple cider, with
complex spice and herb notes. Very high
acid, medium body, and very long finish. Extremely satisfying. 54 euros.
Purchased this one.
2012 Vin Paille – made with chardonnay and sauvignon grapes
that are dried on straw mats for 3 months so they become like sweet raisons
before being pressed. Next they are aged
for 2 years in small oak barrels. They
produce a very sweet, light bodied wine that tastes like honey and dried pear
with a refreshingly high acid.
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| Church in the Hilltop Village of Chateau Chalon, Jura Wine Region |
Scaling the Heights to Chateau Chalon and Sipping Vin
Jaune
The drive from Arbois to Chateau Chalon takes about 30
minutes, and the scenery is charming as you wind your way between small
villages and pastures with cows grazing in green grass. Every once in a while
you pass a small vineyard. As you get closer to Chateau Chalon the elevation
begins to climb and the road twists and turns until you see an ancient castle
ruin, which is Chateau Chalon – the name of the small village that is famous
for producing Vin Jaune.
No one had told me that it was situated on the top of a
cliff with a breathtaking view of the valley and vineyards below. It reminded
me a Montalcino in Italy, with very steep cliffs plunging down to the valley, which was a patchwork of golden yellow vineyards and tiny villages with
church steeples – truly magical.
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| View of Vineyards in the Valley Far Below from Hilltop Village of Chateau Chalon |
I wandered around the narrow streets and was disappointed to
discover that they have several very good restaurants set on the edge of the
cliff with view of the valley below. If I only had known in advance, I would have driven to Chateau Chalon first! Alas, the lunch hour was over, and all of
the restaurants were closed. I had to beg one restaurant to let me order a cup
of espresso, while I stood at the bar for five minutes.
Continuing to wander around, I saw the sign for the famous
Macle winery, and decided to ring the doorbell. Eventually a woman came out and
told me they were closed. I asked if there was a possibility to purchase a
bottle of Vin Jaune, and she nodded yes and invited me inside a small warehouse
area. Disappearing for a minute, she came back with a bottle of Macle Vin Jaune
in her hand and charged me 42 euros. Even though I did not get to taste there, and was not received in a warm
manner, I was still pleased to be able to purchase a bottle of the famous wine.
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| Domaine Macle - One of Most Famous Wineries in the Jura for Vin Jaune |
Eventually I stumbled upon the tourism office that sells
glasses of local wine for only 3 euros, including a presentation. I was greeted by a smiling girl, who served
me a glass of Vin Jaune, while I sat at a table on a balcony overlooking the
valley far below. She provided a perfect explanation of how the wine was made
and why the Jura is so special. So even though I did not get to enjoy the lunch
I was dreaming of, the afternoon still ended with a relaxing pause and a
glass of yellow wine that I sipped with delight while overlooking the golden
vineyards far below.
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| My Delicious Glass of Vin Jaune Overlooking the Vineyards Far Below |
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