(June 2016) It
took less than 24 hours in Sicily to realize we were in a different country,
and it was not Italy. This was a sentiment not only pronounced repeatedly by
the Sicilians we met – “We are
different. We are not like the rest of
Italy. We used to be our own country.”
– but also by the landscape, architecture, food and wine. It was
different. Even the palpable energy and
seemly ready instinct of the people to argue about any topic, made us realize
that we were far removed from the quieter and gentler wine regions of the north,
such as Tuscany and Piedmont.
The Beauty of Sicily |
However the charm and beauty of Sicily was overwhelming, and
I was unprepared for the splendor of the island with its towering volcano,
flower covered hills, and antique buildings covered with pillars and tiles, all
surrounded by a sparkling blue sea and shining white beaches. Sicily is, in a
word, breathtaking.
White Sandy Beach in Sicily |
Number of Wineries in
Sicily and Key Players
At the time of this writing, it is estimated there were
around 450 wine producers on Sicily. Many of them produce bulk wine, with
reports showing that less than 20% of Sicilian wine is actually bottled. Cooperatives
currently dominate Sicily and produce around 75% of the wine.
However, the major wine players in Sicily have gained much
global recognition for unique and high quality wines. Following is a partial
list of these top producers: Donnafugata, Benanti, Planeta, Tasca
d’Almerita, Cottanera, Frank Cornelissen, Passopisciaro, COS, Feudo Montoni, De
Bartoli, Ceuso, Cusumano, Firriato, Morgante, Rapitala, and Abbazia Santa
Anastasia.
For one of the best articles I’ve read on Sicilian wines,
see Tom Atkin, MW’s blog Cork Talk on Sicily.
Unique Architecture of Sicily |
Major Sicilian Wine
Grapes
Interestingly for such a warm climate wine region, the majority
of Sicilian grapes are white – at around 65% - with Cataratto being the most
widely planted grape variety. This is
because Cataratto is the primary grape in Marsala, along with Grillo and
Inzolia. Marsala is, of course, the
famous fortified wine (20% alcohol) made in Sicily – rather in response to
Portugal’s white port. In fact, the Woodhouse firm, also found in Oporto,
founded the first marsala firm in 1796.
Cataratto – the most widely planted white grape in Sicily, and the
main grape in Marsala. On its own, it produces a rather bland, neutral tasting
wine with notes of lemon and straw, with medium acidity. However, we enjoyed
saying the name of this grape out loud, because we nicknamed it the “Cat and
Rat” grape – “Cat- a- rat-to”.
Grillo - a white grape with floral and stone fruit qualities
and fresh citrus zest. Similar to a light pinot grigio, we found this wine to
be a refreshing drink on a hot day. It also pairs well with fish dishes, and is
perfect for the beach.
Nero d' Avola – the most famous red grape of Sicily, and also
the most widely planted. Nero d' Avola
is known for its soft tannins, and warm berry and milk chocolate notes. Very
approachable and likeable to new red wine drinkers. In order to boost its
intensity and add some complexity, however, most Sicilians producers blend it
with other grapes, often cabernet sauvignon, syrah and/or merlot.
Frappato - another red grape with
markers of strawberry, spice, and orange peel. With its medium red color and
perfumed notes, it looks and smells like pinot noir, but is usually earthier on
the palate. Often blended with Nero d Avola to provide more color and
complexity, but very pleasant on its own with light silky tannins.
Zibobbo – actually Muscat of
Alexandria, but called Zibobbo in Sicily. A white grape used primarily to make
the famous passito dessert wines. Very floral with apricot and honeysuckle,
most famously grown on the island of Pantelleria. The word “Zibobbo” actually
has Arabic roots, and the island of Pantelleria is actually closer to Tunisia in
South Africa than it is to Sicily.
Vineyard in Sicily with View of the Sea |
Unique Grapes of Mt.
Etna – a Cooler Subregion of Sicily
Most of us fell in love with Mt. Etna when we visited, not
only because of the beauty of the 10,922 foot (3,329 m) mountain, but because
of the exquisite grapes produced in its moderate to cool climate. Here we found
two unique grapes:
Carricante – a beautiful white grape that produces elegant,
high acid, minerally whites with some floral and citrus notes. The Sicilians
call it the riesling of Sicily, and like riesling, it also has the ability to
age well.
Nerello Mascalese – though a mouthful to pronounce, this red
grape produces light colored wines with huge tannins and high acid. With notes
of dried cherry, tar and earth, it has some Barolo like similarities. If blended with other red grapes, it can
often be darker in color. Like Barolo, it ages well.
Vineyard on Mt. Etna |
DOCG in Sicily
Currently Sicily only has one DOCG, but after tasting some
of the unique white wines from Mt. Etna, I think they should apply to receive
another one soon. The existing DOCG is Cerasuola di Vittoria is located
in the southern part of Sicily and is a special red wine made from Nero d'Avola
and Frappato grapes. We tasted several and found them to be delightful, with
bright fruit flavors of berries and red cherries, and a hint of Sicilian
earthiness.
View of Mt. Etna on Sicily |
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