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Farewell Argentina BBQ |
(March 22, 2014) It was difficult to wake
up after the huge Argentine BBQ at Alejandro’s house that didn’t end until
2:30am. Everyone ate so much meat and drank so much red wine that it was
difficult to move. Luckily his friends
came with guitars and we sang many Argentine songs late into the night. A truly wonderful last evening in
Mendoza.
After packing
for the long flight home and checking out of the hotel, Alejandro picked me up
at noon and we drove to Achaval Ferrer Winery
in Lujan where we had a 12:30 appointment.
Neither one of us had visited this winery before, but it has such a
great reputation in the US – especially with Wine Spectator – that I was curious to see it. So we booked as tourists.
We got
slightly lost on the way, and I was surprised to find that such a famous winery
is tucked down a dirt road with very little signage on how to get there. But eventually we found ourselves on a tiny road, driving through the vineyards decorated with white roses at the end of
each row.
Achaval
Ferrer Winery is quite small, but with a large grassy lawn on which many people
were relaxing at tables and drinking wine.
It is situated on a dry river bed of Mendoza, but there is a great view
of the snow-covered Andes with an old Malbec vineyard (Bella Vista) right in
front.
History & Vineyards of Achaval
Ferrer
Our tour
guide was named Julien, and he was excellent. He began with the history, explaining
that the name came from two men who made their money in cement, and then
started the winery in 1999. They began
by buying 16 acres of an old malbec vineyard planted in 1928 in the Uco Valley,
called Finca (estate) Altimira.
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Entrance to Achaval Ferrer Winery |
The vineyard
was very neglected, so they irrigated it a little, but when they harvested it
that year, it only produced 2/3 pound per vine, or 1 bottle per 3 vines. But the
wine was so exceptional that they decided to buy more old vineyards and keep
the same low harvest yields. This is how they acquired Finca Bella Vista (planted in 1910),
where they built the winery, and Finca Mirador (planted in 1934), SE of Mendoza.
The vineyards
are planted on low guyot with cane pruning only 5 to 6 bunches per vine on 3 x
3 meter spacing. Therefore, it looks a
bit like Burgundy, but with the Andes in the background.
Today they
have 115 hectares and produce 20,000 cases.
They harvest from the 3 Fincas, plus also produce a basic Malbec and a
Bordeaux blend called Quimera. They usually sell out of the Finca Altimira
right away.
Winemaking at Achaval
Ferrer
We toured the
winery, and were thrilled to see that the malbec harvest was in full
swing. Eight people manned two sorting
tables, one for clusters and the other for berries after destemming. The must was then transferred into large
concrete tanks with epoxy coating. Julien
said they pick at around 28 brix, and acid is usually added. They inoculate
with Bordeaux yeast and a pump over is started immediately. Fermentation temp.
is high at 30 to 34C, and finishes in 10-12 days. They are the only winery I visited that
doesn’t do the long extended maceration or cold soak. Julien said they don’t believe it is
necessary because with the high temperature they extract what they need in that
time.
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Cement Tanks at Achaval Ferrer |
The wine is pressed
in pneumatic press and immediately blended, if necessary, and then put in
French barrels – 100% new for Fincas for one year, then one year aging in
bottle. For basic malbec only 7 months
in older barrels with 3 to 4 months bottle age, and for Quimera 10 months in
50% new.
One
interesting aspect is they are experimenting with 160 liter French oak barrels
that they have custom ordered. These
only hold 200 bottles, and they believe the smaller size allows more oak
contact and more oxidation, which results in more well rounded, better
integrated oak. Cost of the barrels is
$1500 each.
I asked what
the going rate was for cellar workers, and we were told that generally employees
make 5000 pesos per month, or $3.50 per hour.
Wine Tasting at Achaval Ferrer
Since the
winery had sold out of most of their high-end wines, we tasted the more basic
level, and then Julien was kind enough to pull a barrel sample for us.
Basic Malbec 2012 - simple, approachable red fruit with
some blue berry notes. Thinner, not
exciting. Harvest at 5 tons per hectare for this wine.
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Sorting Grapes at Achaval Ferrer |
2010 Quimera – closed, seemed to be going through
a dumb phase. Wine was flat on
palate. 30-40% Malbec (always leads),
then other 4 varietals. Different each
year based on vintage. Opaque Ruby, ripe
plum nose, fresh acidity, but then flattens out on palate. No spice or
character at this time. Need to try again later.
2011 Finca Mirado ($700 pesos) Opaque Purple Red. More
minerality from clay soil, old world style, with less fruit, but highly
perfumed. Seemed more lot a cab franc to
me. Violets, raspberries. Thinner, less concentrated. A little disappointing for the price.
2013 Finca Bella Vista ($90 US) - barrel sample. Magnificent!
Finally found a wine here that impressed me, but far too young. Raspberry, velvety. Great concentration. Would enjoy tasting this again in a few
years.
2012 Passito Malbec – sweet, fun dessert wine with loads
of blackberry syrup, dried fig, and spice. $28
As we
departed Achaval Ferrer for the airport, I was glad we had ended at this winery
with its magnificent view of the vineyards and Andes. Pure Mendoza.
Alejandro hugged me at the airport, and then I started to long trip home
to San Francisco. This included 2
airplane changes, with a 2 hour stop in Santiago, Chile, then a 4-hour layover
in Miami, before arriving home 22 hours later in SFO. However, all flights were on time, and I had
a business class seat that I had upgraded to, so all was smooth flying.
Farewell to Argentina
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Wines from Farewell Party in Mendoza |
I feel
incredibly grateful for my two weeks in Argentina, where I met some of the
warmest and most fun-loving people I know.
There is so much graciousness there, with a love for the land and life,
which is echoed in the wine, food, and music.
Argentina will always hold a special place in my heart. Thanks to the Fulbright Scholarship, the
University of Cuyo, and all of the wineries and other organizations that made
my visit so magical.